Getting your resin settings right is crucial to achieving a successful print.
This is particularly important for those who are aiming for the utmost detail
and precision. However, it's often the case that companies only provide resin
profiles for their own products—or sometimes they don't provide them at all.
For newcomers to the scene, it can be quite
frustrating to spend the majority of their time fine-tuning settings.
Moreover, what works perfectly on one printer might not produce the same
results on another. This discrepancy arises from the variations inherent to
different devices, which shows the necessity to tailor resin settings
accordingly.
With that in mind, let's delve into the
experience shared by Derek Jackson from J3DTech, also a Phrozen community
member. He gives us some insight into the process of refining resin settings.
Here's my take on the information:
To dial in a resin, there are two
main factors you want to look into:
- The motion speed of the build plate and light off delay
- The exposure time for bottom and normal layers
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▲ Boxes of Calibration. A tool that Derek made to calibrate the exposure time. Photo by Derek Jackson.
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Decide the Motion Speed of the Build Plate and Light Off Delay
What this impacts is whether your model can
endure the process of being lifted off from the release film, and if the
resin can return to its desired position, ready for the next round of
exposure. Naturally, these factors interplay with your model's size, your
preparation techniques, and the physical properties of the resin. That's
precisely why starting off with a slower speed is a wise move—it helps
mitigate the potential pitfalls in your printing process.
This chart shows what Derek suggests to
start with:
Light Off Delay |
2 seconds |
Bottom Layers Lift Distance |
4 + 4 mm |
Normal Layers Lift Distance |
3 + 3 mm |
Bottom Layers Retract Distance |
4 + 4 mm* |
Normal Layers Retract Distance |
3 + 3 mm* |
Bottom Layers Lifting Speed |
45 & 80 mm/min |
Normal Layers Lifting Speed |
45 & 180 mm/min |
Bottom Layers Retract Speed |
80 & 45 mm/min |
Normal Layers Retract Speed |
180 & 60 mm/min |
* The first part of retract distance for both bottom layers and normal layers should be set
automatically as the same as the lift distance.
Decide the Exposure Time for Bottom and Normal Layers
To determine whether the exposure time has
been dialled in properly, you will focus on different things for bottom
layers or normal layers.
When it comes to the bottom layers, the
goal is to achieve a solid adhesion between your model and the build
plate. Longer the exposure time, the more securely the model adheres to
the plate—however, this can also make detaching the model more
challenging. You aim to expose it for an adequate duration that allows the
model to adhere well, but not excessively long, as this might complicate
the process of removing the model from the plate.
If you find the resin being not able to
adhere to the build plate, becoming a thin plate of plastic in your vat,
you will need to longer the exposure time of bottom layers, after making
sure that your plate has been well levelled.
For the normal layers, Boxes of
Calibration is the model of choice for Derek to fine-tune the exposure
time for the normal layers, as it is a dimensionally accurate calibration
tool. Simply follow the instructions provided in the designated chapter of
the manual (linked below) to interpret the Boxes of Calibration. Once you
have determined the exposure time for the normal layers, you are
essentially set to start printing whatever you desire.
Link to the manual, download link for Boxes of Calibration included:
Derek also created a video demonstrating
how to utilise the Boxes of Calibration and the build plate levelling tool
he designed, which aids in achieving accurate Z offset adjustments. The
video includes guidance on printer maintenance, along with other valuable
insights tailored to beginners venturing into the world of 3D
printing.
Thanks to Derek Jackson for sharing his knowledge of 3D printing, and all
the resources he is providing.
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